2009-05-03

Labor Day Weekend Visit to HuangHua Water Great Wall 黄花水长城 in Huairou District 怀柔




Dear Friends:

Thank God for long weekends...we need them to help us maintain our life's balance. Like many others this Labor Day holiday, I mulled over exactly where I should go, and then with whom? The latter I knew - with two young friends (a Sinagporean and a Malaysian) who are cool to hang out with.

As to the where, I knew it had to be somewhere North and outside of Beijing (either to Huairou or Miyun District), but where exactly? While cleaning out my apartment last week, had found a flyer of a place called 桃园仙谷. It seemed like a nice place to visit at first, but after calling around several 农家院 ie farmer's inn, the voices of those whom I had spoken with didn't sound helpful nor enthusiastic. My heart was reluctant to go to a place where my womanly sense didn't feel good 100%. I know it is a strange way to judge a place. I even told my dear good friend Grace J. about it. She looked at the flyer that I had brought to her office the day before Labor Day. Grace suggested I waited until the cherry picking season so several of us could drive out and enjoy ourselves. ..Sure I'd love to do that.....But still, I did want to be in the outskirt of BJ badly because I needed to be in the arms of Nature again. Another thing bugging me about going to 桃园仙谷, is that we would still need a car to take us around to the other sights - and I didn't want to have to do that.

It was then that I remembered a professor friend whom I had met online. ZH had travelled and seen many beautiful parts of China. As a Beijinger, I was certain he would know the outskirts of Beijing intimately. Even though we hadn't communicated for several months, ZH still remembered me. I told ZH of my predicament, and without hesitation, he suggested visiting the 水长城 The Water Great Wall in Huairou. ZH said that it is not only a great place to be but a wild Great Wall that isn't opened to the public. I have not heard of 水长城 before. Naturally this pique my interest visiting as many different sections of the Great Wall in China is still one of my goals. Besdies, the name itself sounded unusual too. ZH further stated at this time of the year, the area is magnificient to look at, and the surrounding 景点are easily accessible by frequent local buses plying the area. ZH kindly offered to check out all info and email those to me. Unfortunately, when he was about ready to do that, the computers in their office went dead. ZH called back and guided me where to look and what to do. Thanks to him, an hour later and before the close of business Thursday I was able to make reservation for a room for 3 not to far from the Wall. My travelling companions weren't aware of where we will be headed, but I was sure they would be just as thrilled as I was...

We made arrangements to meet at Dongzhimen station at 0830 hours. Bon and Lee were early and were already waiting in line at the busstop for No. 916. I was late when I got there. While I knew it would be crowded, I was taken aback by the number of people at the terminal -- it was swarming and overflowing with Beijingers, who like us, were wanting to escape out into the outskirts too. One had to almost fight one's way out of the crowd...

I had thought we were at the express bus stand - turned out that we were not. With so many people queueing at the express line, and since we were then at the front of the non-express line (thanks to Bon and Lee), we decided to stay put. Ordinarily, the trip into downtown Huairou would have taken us only an hour and a half. Being a holiday, it was so ant packed with bumper to bumper traffic crawling at a snail's pace, the journey took us nearly 3 hours instead!!!

After we got off, I was of the impression that it would take us only 30 minutes to reach our final destination - the time given to me by the owner of the 农家院. I should have known better. In China, always make it a point add 50-80% more time or distance to those guesstimates given to you by the locals. Most people here have no concept of time nor distance. If they think they do (which is rare), it is generally as inaccurate as the size of an iceberg. That's not because people are unwilling (except for the illegal drivers who intentionally mislead you) to help. They are but even if they do not know, they generally won't say they don't so as not to appear ignorant. So the best bet is to really double and triple check - let's hope one's own sense of direction is good. Carrying a map is actually better sometimes. Of course, locals within their own locality knows but beyond their comfort zone, that could be asking too much...That's why I enjoy conducting classes on the chapter on "Giving Directions" to my students. It usually ended up being a very funny and interesting class - especially after each time I laughingly pointed out that if they were really to give direction in the current manner they had given, tourists in China will never get to their intended destination(s), and that would not be very good for China...

The conductor told us to deboard at a certain bus stop, and take another bus. When we walked to the stop in question, we were horrified that all buses on the signboard were 916s? Who in their right mind would do that? There is the 916 exernal bus (外环), 916 internal bus(内环), 916 standard (直达), 916 express (快束)etc. We were truly flabbergasted - we looked and looked but was unable to find the name of the destination we wanted to reach. Perplexed and being close to lunch hour, we decided to eat at KFC (not because we like it, but because we needed to use the loo and we knew it would be clean with toilette papers) before continuing on.

After lunch, we walked to a nearby bus stop and asked around. Again no one seem to know, or different people would give us different directional information. Finally, about 20 minutes later, an illegal taxi driver told us that for 1RMB he would drop us off at the bus stop where we could take the bus to our destination. Turned out he had taken us for a ride. No one at or near the busstop had any clue as to how to get to where we wanted. Tells you how even the locals are as unclear about their own place than the weather.

However, I will applaud my 2 travelling companions for neither losing their cool nor nagging at me. For that I was quite grateful - I cannot stand being nagged at (so if any of you reading this do get to join me in any type of trips, know that please). The last thing I wanted is a scowling and blackened face. That will ruin the mood and fun of the trip - "Take it all in stride" is my travelling philosophy - not a 小姐脾气 or 啰啰嗦嗦 type when adventuring out, know what I mean or don't come with me...

Incidentally, one of the many good things about living here in China is the slow but surely acquisition of and training of our quality of "patience"...My companions' statement that " This is China" (and the unsaid phrase "What do you expect?" is enough for one to utter nothing further. If you do go further, one will only end up positively negative - haha!!!). Some of you will say "So, Natassha, why do you like living in China then?" Yes, it's exasperating under such circumstances, but overall the good still outweighs the bad (for me, that is, though Bon & Lee disagree, but both being too good natured a people to go into a nagging mood - Bon likes to laugh (awkward) things away - this, to me, is a most exceptional and unique ability that not many people possesses... )

While my companions went into the China Mobile office to ask for information, I called 114 and got the number to the Huairou's Tourist Office. Yes, someone did answer the phone that day. However she doesn't know how to get to where we wanted either (haha!). She did provide an alternate number where a live person can help. Before hanging up, I asked if she could feedback to the local tourist office about the 916 crazy numbering system and consider changing it to eg 916A, 916B, 916C or something that would be un-confused visitors? She laughed and agreed....At the next number called, I informed the gentleman about our predicament, that we had been oh so misdirected and lost and if he could kindly lead us back onto the right tract? He did, but we have to change 2 buses. We got to the station where we were supposed to be looking for a bus with a sign on the dashboard. 15 minutes later, our magical bus finally appeared.

Happily we boarded. We asked the conductor how long it would take to get us there. "An hour and a half," she replied. "Huh......?" You would think we would be out of our mind and in extreme pain and frustration by now.... As I've stated earlier, my really cool travelling companions decided to take it all in stride and take a nap instead. I didn't want to nap as I was eager to find out what's in store along this leg of the journey? 15 minutes into the ride, my patience was rewarded by the grassland-like scenery which appeared before me (much like you see at the beginning portion of the "Sound of Music" movie where you see Maria stood singing "The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music...." or it can also be compared to the opening scenery in the Lord of the Ring 1 where Gandalf is seen riding into the beautiful greenery of the Shire to visit Bilbo Baggins on his 111 birthday celebration...That was indeed heartwarming....My heart actually felt like that as the bus travelled along the road which, by then, had turned into a one lane traffic, winding into and out of little villages surrounded everywhere by hills, mountains and valleys, dotted by different tones of gorgeous green. I loved each different scene presenting itself before me, much like course upon course of different dishes "served up at my table waiting to be tasted." I love the hues and tones of the different types of green, the textures of the grasses, the leaves, the trees, the shrubs, the hills, and the fresh crispy clean, early summer air. As we advanced further and deeper into the hills, I found myself loving the journey more and more...and dreaming along...

Finally, we arrived at the bus stop we were to get off. A caveat here - there is a stop several stops before our stop called HuangHua Zhen黄花镇。The stop we had just gotten off is called 黄花城HuangHua Cheng. So make sure you do not get these 2 confused and alight at the wrong stop or you may have to wait another 30 minutes before another comes along. We looked around and saw no 农家院. So I contacted the owner of August Inn whose wife drove out to pick us up. The Inn was OK - passably clean for a nongjiayuan. At night though, we had bugs visiting us that almost freaked us out (not many, just a few) - possibly attracted by the lights, and no water after 8 or 9 pm. The owner provided 2 thermos flask of hot water which you can mix with the cold well water to have a wipe wash.

Remember, accommodations around here are mostly farmer's inn, not hotels or even motels. We are out in rural and natural territory. So do bring your own towel, soap, slippers and any travelling minis that you might have picked up at posh hotels where you used to stay. These all come into handy in China and on trips like this. Am sure there are 2 stars hotels around but I didn't bother looking for it. - we want a local experience all all. For those of you in Singapore who remembers the early kampong life, well, that's as close to it as you can get except it is on a larger scale...

Of course we will like it better if the toilette facilities are better (that's a must where possible). Coming back to the Inn, there weren't any chairs or cupboard for one to hang one's clothes, or even hangers. So be prepared for this. But you can always haul a stool from the restaurant and use it for the night to place your stuff on. But the toilette is cleaned. For some unknown reason, I did not take a picture of our Inn which I regretted...
Most famer's inn have their own pets, generally of a German shepherd variety. There was a young couple who had brought their adorable, loving golden retriever. According to Bon, the lady owner knows nothing about caring about dog. This type of dog is usually very friendly, and loves being surrounded by people, but the owner had it on a leash the entire time. It tried to come to over to us several times to be petted, but the owner kept pulling it away from us. This drove Bon nuts to see her doing that! Real dog lovers know the characteristics of their dogs It appears not to be the case here --Bon was throughly disgusted that the owner didn't even know how to properly comb the retriever's hair. Furthermore, the owner had claimed it to be 6 months - to us, it looks more like a year old for its size, and that made us realized she is rather ignorant too.
That's the kind of dog I would get for Natalie if we have a home here in Beijing. Bon had told me that she loves dogs very much. I was most impressed when I found out that she has a certificate in styling and grooming dog's hair too...See, the more one hangs around with friends, the more one learn sabout the secret skills friends have :-)
From the Inn, it took only 5 minutes for us to walk to the unofficial entrance of the Wall. We paid RMB2, collected by an unscrupulous local who have no actual authority to collect it. We didn't want to argue but other tourists were displeased. This reminded me of WuXia movies I've seen in my childhood days where mountain rouge demanded toll charges to pass through... Later, when we ascended about 50 m, an old old lady wanted to collect another RMB2. Luckily I had asked for a receipt from the first and showed it to her and she let us pass. The others just ignored her and continue up... I had text message this issue to ZH about it. When we meet up later this week, will discuss this matter with him as I have some ideas about handling this matter that will benefit the local people...

So in the first of many pictures in the link below, you will see sights surrounding us - enchanting, and quaint. Even though this section is not yet opened to tourism, already there are many local tourists. The Water Great Wall is simply amazing, quite unlike JuYongGuan, Mutianyi or Simatai or even Badalin Great Wall. Originally, I had thought Mutianyi was the most beautiful - this one is many more times so. I actually fell in love with this place, and immediately wish I have a place out here to come to every weekend - seriously, anyone interested in sharing a country home???

The local signature dish is of a variety of fish called 红鳟鱼. It taste superb (no little bones enmeshed in its flesh) and supremely fresh. You can eat it BBQ (best), or raw like sashimi or steam too. Just tell the waiter how you like it made... This dish is simply mouth watering. Try the local mantou (corn buns) and bread. Most of the other dishes are just ordinary. At our inn, we paid only RMB9.9 per Jing while at others they charge as high as RMB15-18. They are all the same variety of fish, but some will try to convince you theirs is better. All other things on the menu are regular ones you can find back in downtown BJ.

Anyway, as we descended, we chose another route on the other side of the Wall. Almost at the foot of the Wall, I slipped, fell and hurt my lower right leg, unfortunately. Bon quickly and gallaently helped and took my backpack. So we descended at a slowler pace the rest of the way and into the backyard of what seemed like a newly opened restaurant just above the lake. I stopped and spoke to the elderly couple who were busying getting things ready. Without warning, it started raining and we started to run. My non-mobility made me walked into the cover covered, but Bon and Lee were already over the bridge. I called to them and Mr. Liu also called out and beckoned to us to come back in to avoid being rained on. We chatted some more with Mrs. Liu. We found out their doctor son had set this restaurant up for opening the next day. We were invited, went but decided against staying since the guests were mostly their son's friends whom we did not know. So we went exploring in an area further up the road called the Ling Long Mountains, about 3 major bus stops away (or 6 mini stops) away instead.

Back to the evening of the Friday night - it was cool, soothing and tranquil....We had the BBQ fish (2 in fact). The landlord suggested their toufu special which we ordered, stir-fried spinach, eggs with tomatoes, 2 plates of local fried bread, and of course beer and sprite (to concoct our own Shandy). Hmmmmmmm, BBQ HongZun was simply delicious...After dinner, we took a walk up the lane back towards the Great Wall, following the curve of the road...the poplar lined trees on both sides of the road made marachas rambling sounds each time the breeze blew- i adores the cha-chaing sounds the leaves makes as if signalling to say "Let's Fiesta! Come on, come on, come on!)....The evening sky was clear-and hazy after the rain.. We got back to the Inn and decided to take turns washing up.
(Un) fortunately, there wasn't any TV in the room. We didn't bring any games to play but asked the owner for a pack of cards which we dealt with....Lee went out, came back and said the night was good, but by then Bon and I were laying on the double size bed, too lazy to move. I knew the nite sky would be gorgeous with stars sparkling like diamonds in the sky. It was also a litle chilly too.
On summer nights, we were told, it is usually fabulously and cool. One can hear Nature's orchestration of the insect world singing, chanting and playing their own kind of folk music...We didn't stayed up late or go to a bar (none there, hmm, maybe I should set up one)....It took us all a while and separately to fall asleep - at one point, I woke up, decided to took a short walk outside to look at the sky again. Being out in nature calmed and comforted me. When I got back, I was able to fall asleep shortly after...

Wished all my family members are here enjoy this with me.... I had not savored enough of this place yet, and shall definitely return often. Perhaps I will speak to this professor friend and hear his stories of his many visits every weekend from 1991 - 1998. I know I will enjoy listening to him...

The next day, we checked out the Ling Long Mountains as stated earlier. Ling Long Mountains is apparently where the Monkey King, Sun WuKong who proclaimed himself Qi-Tian-Da-Sheng 齐天大圣 (translated "Great Sage Equal to Heaven") of the famous Chinese literary classic "Journey to the West" was born - out of a rock. A recorded tape played this story over and over again which was how we found out. We didn't go in because we were sort of tired from yesterday's climb plus the fact that the fall I had made me less mobile. We were contented just waiting for the returning bus to take us back.
When we got back to the inn, we checked out and look for another place to have lunch. There is a restaurant overlooking the lake by the Great Wall. So we decided to go there and try its food. But the price for the BBQ fish was not only 50% more, but I suspected we were overcharged for its weight too since the fish was smaller than the 2 we had the night before.
What bothered us during lunch was that many young Chinese tourists discarded their trash overboard into the lake. There was a young not-bad-looking Chinese girl with her friends, and all their boyfriends who kept on dropping trash into the lake. It annoyed me so much that when I saw one of her male friends walked down the steps, I decided to follow and spoke to him about it and have him asked her to stop littering. I told him it makes Chinese people looked bad, and reinforce upon foreigners' mind that Chinese people's totally uncivic minded, and have no love for their country. He said he would. Later when I went back upstairs, he asked me again who it was, and I pointed her out. She sulked of course, and the others in their group said nothing. Subequently, they left without ordering...I know it hurts to tell the truth, but I felt I had to let them know because I love this place vey much. It really bugged us and those Chinese twho loves China that many of their countrymen think nothing of turning their surroundings into an open air rubbish dump, out of habit. But that is another subject to be discussed elsewhere, not here in my blog.
Our return journey home on Saturday was much easier though the place got even more crowded as we were leaving. The bus took us directly back into Huairou Central not too far from the doorstep of the Huairou to Beijing express bus terminal...Honestly speaking, I was reluctant to leave...

Overall, the trip was good, worthwhile and fulfilling because I've found another new place where I can be lost in. Bon, Lee and I did enjoy it....'Hope you'll enjoy these pictures by clicking on the link below... Regards, WON

http://picasaweb.google.com/BeyondDesiderata/May12009LaborOvernightAt?feat=directlink


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